Dog Gear Hub

How to Choose a Dog Crate Size (and Which Crate Type to Get)

By Dog Gear Hub Editorial Team · Updated 1 November 2026

Australian Shepherd resting inside a metal dog crate
Photo by Impact Dog Crates on Pexels

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Not veterinary advice. This article shares general information about dog gear only. It is not a substitute for advice from your veterinarian. Check fit and supervise your dog with new gear, toys and chews, and ask your vet about health, diet, injuries or behaviour concerns.

A crate should feel like a den: big enough to stand, turn and lie flat, small enough to feel snug. Getting the size right makes crate training easier and keeps your dog comfortable.

This guide covers how to measure, how much space to add, and which type of crate suits which home.

Measure your dog first

You need two measurements. Do them with your dog standing on all four legs.

  1. Length: from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail (not the tip).
  2. Height: from the floor to the top of the head, or the tips of the ears if they stand up, whichever is higher.

Then add some room:

  • Add about 2 to 4 inches to both measurements for most dogs.
  • Lean toward the larger end for big or deep-chested dogs that like to stretch out.

Compare those numbers with the inside dimensions of the crate, not the outside dimensions. Wall and frame thickness can take away several inches.

Signs a crate is the right size

  • Your dog can stand up without bending its head.
  • It can turn around easily.
  • It can lie on its side with legs stretched out.
  • There isn't so much extra room that one end becomes a toilet area.

That last point matters most with puppies.

Sizing a crate for a puppy

Buying a new crate every few months is expensive. Many owners buy a crate sized for the dog's expected adult size and use a divider panel to make it smaller at first. Move the divider back as your puppy grows.

If you don't know your puppy's adult size, ask your breeder, shelter or vet for an estimate. Mixed-breed puppies can surprise you.

Crate types compared

Wire crates

Metal wire panels, often foldable, usually with a plastic tray at the bottom.

  • Pros: good airflow and visibility, fold flat, often come with a divider, easy to clean.
  • Cons: less den-like (cover them with a fitted cover or blanket if your dog likes it darker), can rattle, not ideal for flights.

Plastic crates

Hard plastic shells with a wire door and side vents.

  • Pros: cozy and enclosed, good for car travel, and some styles meet airline cargo rules (check with the airline).
  • Cons: less airflow, bulky to store, harder to see your dog.

Soft-sided crates

Fabric panels over a light frame.

  • Pros: light and portable for trips and hotels.
  • Cons: not for chewers or dogs that scratch at doors, harder to clean, not for unsupervised use with dogs still learning.

Heavy-duty crates

Thick steel or aluminum frames with strong latches.

  • Pros: made for strong dogs and determined escape artists.
  • Cons: heavy and expensive.

If a dog is panicking in a crate and trying to escape, a stronger crate may not be the answer. Ask your vet or a qualified behaviorist about separation-related distress.

Furniture-style crates

Crates built into side tables or cabinets.

  • Pros: look good in a living room.
  • Cons: often less sturdy, and wood can be chewed.

Setting up the crate

  • Location: a quiet corner of a room where the family spends time, away from radiators, drafts and direct sun.
  • Bedding: a washable crate mat or bed sized to the crate floor. Our guide to washing dog beds helps keep it fresh. Skip bedding for puppies that shred it.
  • Water: for longer periods, a bowl that clips to the crate door prevents spills.
  • Toys: a safe chew or food puzzle. See frozen treat toys for dogs for ideas.

If you're comparing options, a folding wire dog crate with divider and a washable crate mat are a good starting combination. Check the inside measurements on each listing.

Crate training basics

A crate should always be a safe, positive place, never punishment.

  1. Leave the door open and drop treats inside.
  2. Feed meals near, then inside, the crate.
  3. Close the door for a few seconds while your dog eats, then open it.
  4. Slowly build up the time, staying in the room at first.
  5. Practice short absences once your dog is relaxed.

Puppies and adult dogs both need regular breaks for the toilet, exercise and company. Long hours in a crate aren't fair on any dog. Ask your vet or trainer for guidance on how long your dog can comfortably stay crated.

Common crate sizing mistakes

  • Using outside dimensions. Always check the inside length and height on the listing.
  • Measuring a sitting dog. Measure standing, and check the head height when your dog is alert.
  • Forgetting the bed. A thick bed raises your dog a few inches, so allow for it in the height.
  • Sizing by breed name. Dogs of the same breed can differ a lot. Measure your own dog.
  • Skipping the divider. A puppy in an adult-sized crate without a divider has room to use one end as a toilet.

Planning to use the crate in the car too? Our dog car travel checklist explains how to secure it.

Frequently asked questions

What size crate does my dog need?

Measure nose to base of tail and floor to top of head, add about 2 to 4 inches, and compare with the crate's inside dimensions.

Can a dog crate be too big?

Yes, especially for puppies. Extra space can lead to toilet accidents at one end. Use a divider until your puppy grows.

Is a wire or plastic crate better?

Wire crates offer airflow and visibility, while plastic crates feel cozier and suit travel. Many dogs do well in either.

Should I cover my dog's crate?

Some dogs settle better with a cover over the top and sides. Leave the front partly open and make sure there's plenty of airflow.

Where should I put the crate?

In a quiet part of a busy room, away from heat sources, drafts and direct sun.

Read next: Dog Beds for Older Dogs: Orthopedic Support and Easy Entry →